Kauila Specs and Resources- - 9 Mar 2017 14:19:41
Kauila now a days and - 11 Mar 2017 10:56:47
Richard Kapuaala Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 17:40:35
It's about 19 bucks for 20 sheets. One sheet of decals from Stan is about 35 U.S. dollars.
If you're interested in it you can find it at :
Actually most transparent waterslide decals have this problem whether from Testors or Stan. The nice thing about Stan is he can lay down a white coat beneath the finished color so that the lettering is opaque once applied. This white waterslide paper accomplishes the same thing at a fraction of the cost but is a bear to use.
I've used other transparent water slide ink jet paper before and even that is easier to apply than these but I can't argue with the results. I used White because the first time I used transparent on a dark background the colors turned from yellow and red to a sort of brownish red and lime green.
After several coats of primer and paint and some smoothing and fitting of the water fill cap I put the decals on. Normally I buy my decals from Stan Cedarcliff because he has the best custom decals and will work with decals you make yourself as well as design and make them for you. This time I used some White (not transparent) water slide ink jet paper from Amazon. I feel like it worked very well but was a bit trickier than Stan's decals to apply.
At first I was going to use pure silver solder. I have a small butane torch that boasts temps of 2000 F. I have no doubt they reached that temp but the torch was not large enough to heat the surface uniformly and the first end I did was a mess. (Note the charred black rear). Fortunately that piece would not be seen so I used a none lead solder at 450 F to solder the front and it turned out nice.
After completing all the end pieces I punched rivets in the and drilled holes in to the skin and shaped around its form. Even without solder or securing screws the tank looked good so I went right to soldering it.
I'm happy to say that even after the 3rd end piece the form looked as good as it did when I took it out the box from shapeways.
After I had enough pieces for the skin form I attached the stainless steel form end to a piece of birch ply backer with some blumbers puddy and 3 sheet rock screws. I've made tank ends on smaller engines using hard wood forms but no matter how hard the wood the form would always crap out after the first end.
The first thing I did with end form was to make some identical pieces for the skin form.
These are the latest of several metal parts I have already had printed at Shapeways. Like all the other parts I used Hexagon 2.0 to make these parts. The part in the foreground that looks like the end of a watertank is what I will use to form my tank out of 1/32" copper.
© RICHARD KAPUAALA 2017